THE WHIST BUNGALOW.

From 20th Century Impressions - Arnold Wright, 1903.

No description of Colombo would be complete without reference to Whist Bungalow, Mutwal, and the Colombo residence of its proprietor, Mr. Louis H. S. Pieris. Away from the stir and bustle of the business quarters of the city, and occupying an ideal site in the northernmost suburb, this delightful residence also has local historical associations. Its praises have been repeatedly sung. Tennent, Digby, and Cordinor, among others, have written of the beauty of the situation, and of the times when this historic dwelling was in the heyday of its glory. As it stands to day, in surroundings of true tropical charm, the house combines historic tradition with modern taste, comfort, and convenience in a manner enchanting to the visitor to this beautiful spot. It was designed on a large scale, and the spacious reception-rooms speak of the days when our ancestors knew how to entertain generously and the motto with regard to guests was "the more the merrier." Merry indeed were the doings in that roomy residence in the days of yore-the early times of the British occupation of Ceylon-and need there was then not only for the majestic banqueting-halls and card-rooms, but also for the large, old-fashioned wine and provision cellars of solid construction, which are still in a state of perfect preservation. Capacious, too, are the sleeping apartments, to which the fine old roysterers of that long bygone time retired, when at last their prolonged merry-makings were brought temporarily to a close.

The stables and coach-houses-the latter now filled with the most modern type of carriages, while in the former are to be seen the best breeds of horses-are all on the same scale of magnificence. Then glance over the ten acres of ground attached to, and surrounding, the bungalow, and the ravished eve lights upon handsome trees and ornamental shrubs and masses of many-hued flowers spread out in gorgeous and dazzling profusion, yet in orderly design, among which the regal rose is especially conspicuous while equally pleasing to the sight is the fruit-garden with its wealth of tropical trees and shrubs, each bearing its own luscious and richly coloured burden. An exquisite lawn hems the majestic Kelani River, with all its seductive suggestions of pleasant boating parties. What could be more delightful than this outlook over the expanse of water, shimmering under the almost too brilliant sunshine, which stretches away westward and on the shore of which the house stands On this side you see the broad delta of the Kelani river, while yonder is the shining sea. And surely that is an enchanted islet which lies, crowned with a wealth of foliage, in the broad mouth of the Kelani river Turn northward, and the coconut groves that stretch along the coast in that direction come into the range of vision. Or look southwards, and admire the picturesque disorder of the fishermen's huts grouped under the tall coconut palms, with a small Buddhist temple in their midst. The spot is truly a haven of peace and retirement, in which the jaded and overwrought mind is soothed and lulled into contentment with the very monotony of the rank luxuriance of its natural beauty.

Professor Ernst H. Haeckel, the great naturalist, in his book "A Visit to Ceylon," published in 1883, devotes a considerable portion of one chapter to a rapturous description of the attractions of this beauty spot of Colombo. He also explains that "the bungalow derived its extraordinary name from the circumstance that its first owner, an old English officer at the beginning of the century (the nineteenth), used to invite his friends out to this remote villa to indulge in whist on Sunday evenings. As the strict observance of the English Church is, of course, strongly averse from such an employment on Sunday, these jovial meetings were kept a profound secret, and the whist parties and drinking bouts in the isolated bungalow seem to have been uproarious in proportion to the satisfaction of these jolly comrades at having escaped the dreary tedium of an English Sunday and orthodox society," The Whist Bungalow was, in short, a convenient retreat for these roystering Sabbath-breakers. Later on the bungalow was enlarged and decorated and the grounds laid out in ornamental style by a subsequent owner, the well-remembered Sir Richard Morgan. The place is reminiscent of the life of that versatile genius, one of the group of meteoric men that shot into local prominence in the early fifties-C. A. Lorensz, James Stewart, and men of their ilk. Professor Haeckel, with portentous gravity, states that on the decease of Sir Richard his spirit refused to quit the scene of his former glories. The bungalow thus added to its historic fame by becoming haunted, and fearsome scenes were rumoured to take place in the building every night. With bated breath the tale was told of uproarious ghostly revels, of which the Spirit of Sir Richard was master and in which 'winged demons and fiends with fiery eyes participated. Owing to these nightly performances the bungalow remained empty and shunned until a certain Stipperger acquired it. Being of a practical and non-superstitious turn of mind, the new owner at once set to work and routed the supposed ghostly denizens- which proved to be beings no more supernatural than wild cats, bandicoots, and flying foxes. Stipperger restored the neglected house and garden, and it was in its condition of renewed order and beauty that Professor Haeckel saw the spot and became enchanted with it. As the guest of Stipperger at the bungalow for a fortnight, he enjoyed every opportunity, not only for becoming imbued with the beauty of the place and studying the flora and fauna of the vicinity, but also for learning the traditions attached to the house.

A far earlier account of this remarkable dwelling is given in an exceptionally interesting old book entitled "A Description of Ceylon," of which only a very few copies are said to be extant. It was written by the Rev. James Cordinor, M A., who had been chaplain to the garrison of Colombo, and was published in London in 1807. The reverend gentleman gives the following account of the "Whist Club," from which the house derives its name: "The bungalow where it (the Whist Club) is held is 'beautifully situated about four miles north-east of Colombo, at the mouth of the Calanyganga, which there receives the name of Mootwal. The club consists of twelve members, chosen from among the most respectable 'inhabitants of the place. They give dinners in rotation, and generously invite twelve strangers. Some of the members, whose characters are celebrated for extensive hospitality, assemble a still greater number of guests. The entertainment is always liberal, and the assembly never fails to be animated with the highest share of convivial delight. The company repairs to the villa about one o'clock in the afternoon, and play cards, read, or otherwise enjoy the country until four, when dinner is announced. At half-past five, or at six o'clock, they rise from table, make a circuit in their carriages or on horseback, and reach their respective houses before it is dark."

Among the more recent visitors to the Whist Bungalow was Lord Llandaff (the Right Hon. Henry Matthews, Q.C.), who, when passing through Ceylon, found his way to the spot to renew his acquaintance with the house where he was born and spent his childhood. Lord Llandaff was, as may be well expected, delighted to revisit the scene, and he found in every gnarled trunk a source of happy recollections and a beauty born of cherished memories where none till then was suspected. His visit gained for the present proprietor a very useful friend, for Lord Llandaff's acquaintanceship was of the utmost service to Mr. Pieris during the latter's stay in England.

During his first fortnight in Ceylon, Haeckel based himself at one of the grandest residences of the period, the "Whist Bungalow" at Mutwal, which was at that time occupied by a Herr Stipperger, the representative of the Austrian Lloyd Shipping Company in Colombo, and several other Germans. The "Whist Bungalow" had been constructed at the turn of the 19th century by an English officer with a penchant for holding whist parties on Sunday evenings. The next owner, Sir Richard Morgan, Supreme Court Judge, spent a large part of his fortune in extending the bungalow and creating a magnificent garden. It was this garden that gave Haeckel an indication of the delights to come. The neighbouring bungalow - and perhaps the only other residence of prominence in Mutwal at the time - was "Elie House", which had been built by Sir Philip Anstruther, Colonial Secretary, and once occupied by his successor, Sir Emerson Tennent. Curiously, during the early 1880s this bungalow was also occupied by Germans, so Haeckel must have felt quite at home.

From Mutwal, Haeckel made several short excursions. He stayed for several days at the Kollupitiya bungalow of Staniforth Green, "Temple Trees', whose notable garden ran down to the banks of the Beira Lake. One day they were rowed 'across the mirror like pool, covered with magnificent white and red water-lilies,' to the house of William Ferguson, then editor of the Ceylon Observer. Another day they visited the Colombo Museum, an experience which clearly impressed Haeckel.

The Whist Bungalow as it is today. In the foreground is a municipal playground and behind it the Kovil.

Sale of historic home:

The beautiful property situated overlooking Campbell Park and country of 'Karlshrue' and ground was sold by public auction on Saturday, July 14 , the sale being conducted by Mr. R. G. Koelman representing Janson & Company of Colombo. Karlshrue, like Whist Bungalow (in Mutwal - the Colombo residence of Louis H. S. Pieris) and Elie House boasts of a history having been no other than the pleasure resort of the late Charles Ambroz Lorenz. On his death the property passed on to Cecil Morgan from whom the government rented it as the residence of the Inspector General of Police. It was later split up into 15 blocks and auctioned. It fetched Rs 91,550/-. The house and surrounding land of 3 acres, 3 roods & 31 perches fetched Rs 40,100 and was bought by L. Mendis who also bought three other blocks.

News from 100 years ago: A newpaper clipping with reference to the Whist Bungalow from the Sunday Times of 99 axxxgjkg jjj